How to Pinch and Stake Dahlias
Updated 2026-06-12
Two simple jobs make a dahlia plant carry more flowers and hold them up off the ground. You pinch it when it is young to make it branch, and you support it as it grows so the stems do not snap or flop.
Neither takes much. A pair of snips, some stakes or netting, and a couple of well-timed afternoons. The plants do the rest. Skip these jobs and you tend to get a single tall stalk with a few blooms that lean into the mud after the first hard rain.
Here is how to pinch, when to do it, and how to keep the plant standing through a full season of bloom.
Why pinching works
A young dahlia wants to grow straight up on one central stem. Left alone, that stem makes one main flower and not many side branches. Pinching changes the shape of the plant.
When you remove the growing tip, the plant stops pushing up and instead wakes up the buds lower down. Those buds become side branches. More branches mean more stems, and more stems mean more flowers over the season.
You trade a little time for a lot of yield. Pinching delays the first bloom by roughly two weeks while the plant resets, but the total number of flowers from then until frost goes up sharply.
When and how to pinch
Pinch when the plant is 8 to 12 inches tall and has about three to four sets of true leaves. That is the sweet spot. The plant is established enough to bounce back fast, but still young enough to branch low and bushy.
Do not pinch too early. A plant only 2 or 3 inches tall does not have the leaf area to recover well, and pinching it can stunt growth. Wait for those three to four sets of leaves.
To pinch, find the central growing tip and cut it out about half an inch above a set of leaves. You can use clean snips or just your fingers. Take out the top few inches, including the small cluster at the very top, which may hold one to three little buds. Within about 10 to 14 days you should see new shoots pushing from the leaf joints below the cut.
Some growers call this topping, especially when they remove a bit more of the stem. Do it before the main stalk gets much thicker than a quarter inch. A thicker stalk is hollow, and cutting into the hollow part can leave an open well that collects water.
Staking single plants
Dahlias get tall and top-heavy, and the stems are brittle. A plant loaded with blooms can split at the base in a storm. Support it before it needs it, not after it falls.
For single plants, drive a sturdy stake next to each one at planting or soon after, before the roots fill in. A wood stake, bamboo cane, or metal T-post all work. As the plant grows, tie the main stems loosely to the stake with soft twine or strips of cloth, adding ties as it gains height. Loose ties let the stem flex without chafing.
Tomato cages and similar wire supports also work for shorter varieties, set over the plant early so it grows up through the support.
Corralling and netting for rows
When you grow dahlias in rows or blocks, staking each plant gets tedious. Two group methods scale better.
The corral, sometimes called the Florida weave, uses stout posts down both sides of the bed. You run heavy twine or wire from post to post along each side, boxing the plants in. Add another level of horizontal line roughly a foot higher as the plants climb. The plants lean on the strings instead of falling.
Horizontal netting does the same job with a grid. Stretch plastic mesh or pea netting flat over the bed, held up by posts, so the stems grow up through the squares. Install it when the plants are about 6 inches tall, or about half their support height, so they grow into it rather than being threaded in later. For tall varieties over about 36 inches, add a second and even third layer of netting, each about 12 inches above the last. Crossbars at 12, 24, and 36 inches give you something to rest each layer on.
Netting trains stems to grow straight and long, which is part of why cut flower farms favor it.
Disbudding for bigger blooms
Pinching gives you more flowers. Disbudding does the opposite on purpose. It gives you fewer flowers, but bigger ones on longer, cleaner stems. The two practices work together over a season.
A dahlia usually makes flower buds in threes at the end of a stem, one central bud flanked by two side buds. If you remove the two side buds while they are small, the plant pours its energy into the one that remains. That central flower opens larger, on a longer stem that is not crowded by its neighbors.
On show dahlias, growers wait until several buds on a branch reach about three sixteenths to a quarter inch across, then pinch off all but one bud per branch. For garden cutting you do not have to be that precise. Even pinching the obvious side buds off your best stems gives you noticeably larger flowers.
Use disbudding on the big dinnerplate types and on stems you want for a vase. Leave plenty of plants unpinched for a mass of smaller blooms if that is the look you want.
Common questions
- At what height should I pinch dahlias?
- Pinch when the plant is about 8 to 12 inches tall and has three to four sets of true leaves. Remove the central growing tip about half an inch above a leaf set. Avoid pinching very young plants only 2 or 3 inches tall, which can stunt them.
- Will pinching delay my dahlia blooms?
- Yes, by roughly two weeks while the plant resets and pushes side branches. In exchange you get many more flowers over the rest of the season, so the total harvest goes up even though the first bloom comes later.
- What is the difference between pinching and disbudding?
- Pinching removes the growing tip early to make the plant branch and produce more flowers. Disbudding removes the side buds around a flower later in the season so the remaining bloom grows larger on a longer stem. Many growers do both.
- When should I put up dahlia supports?
- Early, before the plants need them. Drive stakes at or soon after planting, and install horizontal netting when plants are about 6 inches tall so they grow up through it. Supporting late, after a plant flops, usually means broken stems.